SHETLAND OWNERS ASSOCIATION

Hi all

Has anybody here done this conversion? I've got a Family Four and about to cut some holes in the splashwell to change the original splashwell steering mount to the more modern cable-through arrangement. I've done the hole for the cable entry to the tilt-tube and that's installed, but obviously the steering tube when fully turned to port fouls the side of the splashwell.

I'm curious to see any photos of how the recess in the port side splashwell has been done on this conversion specifically on F4/570 or similar boats. I've bought a large witches hat which I am planning to mount to port side recess, but in reverse, which should allow the steering arm to recess into it and keep the water out, hoping its a good solution...

Any ideas thoughts, suggestions appreciated.
thanks

Forgive me if I've got this wrong but, I thought the F4 outboard was mounted on a diving platform type area so the splashwell was removed to give alround seating area in the cockpit. Cheers Magicflack

The majority of F4s have splashwells, the bathing platform was only introduced on the last couple of marks before the model was discontinued.

OK I didn't know that,however can I ask Frankenstien why he wants to change the system ? and to Frank' I received your other "Q" via the Admin & i'll get back to you with that info, sorry for missing original post cheers Magic

Thanks for that!

I've read a few places that through-tilt tube is a better steering arrangement, can't recall the reasons, but I know the ball mount adjustment is a bit fiddly as well. I've seen a few Shetlands modified to cable-through steering, just never see enough details in the photos! I'm also more used to the cable through design - seems more modern. What I don't like is making new holes in the well, but I don't think they should affect the structural integrity personally - although I'm no boat builder! Once I'm done any old holes I'll re-glass and gel-coat - getting pretty good at that, closed up a bunch of holes on my hull and you'd never know they were ever there.

I've also managed to move the throttle/gear cables and electrical cables to the lower hole (existing steering mount), which makes for a much neater install. I'll post some pics when I'm done for everyone's reference in case anyone else is interested.

Hi,
My F4 splashwell mount steering restricts the angle that my motor will turn, it turns further without the cable attached, so i presume though the tube would allow the full range, which would certainly help in some of the more restricted turning spaces in smaller marina berths.
Chris

The lock to lock travel of the turning system is controlled by the preset length of the solid diameter end shaft of the cable,this I think is an industry standard which ever mount option used,for example 3 1/2 turns lock 2 lock, a greater number of turns would be a special order, on some engine mounting plates they have a 2nd hole which will allow a slightly tighter turn circle. RE Frankenstiens comment on the ball system, the ball is there to assist in centralising the wheel turns so the motor is in the middle and therefore you travel in a straight line with equal turns either side of centre. Cheers Magic

Yes, that ball arrangement and having to adjust to centre, a bit fiddly IMO. Prefer the standard cable-through arrangement.

As promised here are some photos of how I've done the conversion. Had to make a 92mm hole to the port side. I originally fitted a large witches hat in reverse, but as its a cone shape the steering arm fouled the rubber on its extreme travel, so I abandoned the witches hat and turned to a... wait for it... cup holder! Had bought a bunch of cup holders to fit to this boat off ebay, but not going to be able to use them really as there's nowhere to mount them.

Turns out it was almost perfect for the job. I had to modify the cup holder a bit as it was a too deep, fouling the seat base compartment - so I cut a disc out of black perspex, cut the length of the cupholder down and epoxied the disc to the end so its now shorter. You have to allow for the steering linkage to fit in the recess in all states of motor tilt, it prescribes an arc when tilting so you have to make the hole location based on that arc. I'll drill a small hole on the bottom arc of the cup holder which will allow any water that sits inside it to drain direct into the bilge (it sits just above it conveniently).

On starboard side I made a 50mm hole, and bought a very small witches hat (69mm if I recall), which presses into the hole like a standard grommet would, without the use of a surround ring.

The only thing that worries me is I've potentially weakened the structure to the rear, especially as I've fitted a 90HP Merc. A better solution albiet very expensive is to fit hydraulic steering, this by the looks of things wouldn't require any extra holes to be made.

This is the original witches hat in reverse which I abandoned.