535 refurb

[Newcomer]

Hi there,
This is my first post, and just wanted to ask a few questions.
We are just about to undertake a refurb on a recently purchased 535. The person who had it before has let it go a bit and now it needs quite a bit of work.

First question is related to paint. I want to sand the entire boat, as it has many layers over the original gel coat. The paint used in the past is peeling off badly which makes me think its the incorrect paint used. I was thinking of using international paint, but my dad has had good results from using teamac. A bit of research has revealed that teamac doesn't have a great history with finish. So which one to use is my question on that one.

Secondly, I'm of the understanding that I need to use a specific primer for under water line and under antifoul, then a different primer undercoat for the rest of the boat.
Also what is the best antifoul to use. Its in the water most of the time, doesn't dry out, had a 60 on the back, but gear box has gone and needs to be replaced, but may buy new 40? Thays another query. My dad had one from new in the 70s. He said everyone used to run 40hp on the back, and they won't go much quicker with a bigger engine.

So that's about it for now, apart from I paid my 5 pounds to see pictures and hopefully post pictures, but it doesn't seem to work.

Many thanks in advance for any replies.

[535Mustard]

I have used international toplac paint before and it gives a good finish.
I used the toplac primer above the waterline and used the primer specific for the antifouling under the waterline.

As for engine size my last 535 had a 75hp on and would do 33knts.
A 40hp will probably do about 25knts give or take.

[stuart50]

I used SML paint. Excellent finish easy to roll and tip

[dellquay13]

Ask a few local boaters what antifoul they use, they will be able to give much better advice on what is good for the local conditions at the moorings. What is good in lockgated harbours in Wales with little water movement may be wrong for a swinging mooring on a Solent estuary for example.

[Newcomer]

Thank you so much for the info. Think I'll stay with the international. I've read up so much on it, amd it seems really popular. I have lots of painting experience, but zero on boats. I've watched some videos where some people say about the roll and tip method, I'm thinking depending on the thickness of the paint, if I used gloss rollers sleeves, I.e sponge, would that not give a good finish.

Also has anyone had any experience of interchanging a gearbox, for example putting a 70 lower unit on my 60 mercury.

Still unable to post and view pictures as well. I have paid my subscription, but nothing happened.

Many thanks again

[dellquay13]

Your full membership can take a few days to get activated, it's done manually by Sue who does the admin for the forum, not an automated system.
Depending on the outboard, there will be a range of models that share common parts, as many are built on the same powerhead and lower unit etc. My Yamaha F70a is largely the same as the F50 and F60, they are just tuned differently. I found the same with previous Evinrude 40 vro and Johnson 50 vro outboards.
If you give more info on what outboard you have and what you want to fit, someone may have advice that helps.

[Clive]

Word of caution re antifoul... I bought some international years ago for my previous boat which had poor and flaking antifoul. I was about to get stuck in when I read the warnings on the tin. No skin contact, and inhaling dust may cause breathing problems and death. Not surprising cos antifoul kills everything- our drive under the boat was like new from the run off. I chickened out and left it as it was trailered!
Most likely less lethal now but be careful with the old stuff. Hopefully someone will correct me.
Cheers Clive

[Newcomer]

Thank you for the words of advice, looking at the sate of the Hull, I don't think it had antifoul on it. Was covered in weed and barnacles etc. But I'll be sure to mask up.
Regarding engine, it's a mercury from the 90s, 60hp 2 stroke elpto. Looking online, I think the lower unit from a 50 will fit, and maybe a 70, but I'm not entirely convinced. We are on a mega budget, so trying to fix as cheaply as possible. Not sure on exact year though unfortunately. I'm going to take off the lower unit tomorrow hopefully, weather permitting, and have a look at internals, the engineer said it sounds knackered, and had lots of metal shavings and bits in the oil. Said it needs to be replaced. However their initial advice was a new lower unit @ 2k or new outboard at 5500. So I'm thinking it's more about the sale. Looking on ebay, can get replacement gear cog for under 100. Presumably there can't be too many bits that can have shavings coming off. It was running, but top end was massively reduced and sounded ropey as anything. Motor sounds great, but under load, sounds horrendous

[dellquay13]

Have a look online for an exploded diagram of your lower unit, you will see it is made up of two pinion cogs for F and R, and a crown wheel on the driveshaft. There will be a system of sliding the 2 pinions along the propshaft into engagement with the crown. If you do go down the refurb route, get a workshop manual like Seloc for step by step instructions.
Look at Mercury brochures for your outboard, and you will see other close models sharing cylinder no.s and cubic capacity, gear ratios etc. These may have slightly different WOT rpms, but they are very likely to share a common lower unit. Also look at Mariner outboards, as they are all made by Brunswick and are the same as Mercury with different decals.

[Clive]

I've not got much knowledge with boat engines, but where are the metal bits, engine oil or gearbox oil? If gearbox it's worth a go at fixing it, but flush it well. Metal shavings are very bad news as they potentially mess up anything they contact. You said the boat was a bit neglected, so not a well maintained engine?
2-Stroke engines are not around now and yours is 20-30 years old so it will need replacing at some point I'm afraid. Where are you planning to use the boat? If it's coastal then at least get an auxiliary engine. Spending few £k you don't have is better than a horrible accident from drifting or worse after engine failure. Short of fixing holes in the hull there's not much else that is more important!! You don't need lovely days on the water being spoilt by worries about engine reliability. Our previous boat came with a tired old 30hp 2 stroke Johnson. We had it serviced (expensive) and used it on the Thames. It stalled and oiled up at every lock, it was a nightmare! After a season we gave up and bought a four stroke Tohatsu. What a joy, cost a lot but never looked back.
Good luck, remember boats are money pits!
Cheers, Clive