Converting a tiller to remote throttle

[DaveClark]

Hi everyone

I Wondered if someone could help me

I have just purchased a lovely Shetland 535 and it came with a small mariner 5hp outboard engine.
It’s a project boat I’ve only had it a couple of weeks but not far off ready for the Thames.

It has the steering controls fitted, this seems quite straightforward to install to outboard.
The forward, reverse, neutral again seems quite obvious to fit to outboard.

I’m not sure what kit is needed to fit the remote throttle to the tiller
See attached photo of the outboard

I’m yet to buy the control kit as well as this never came with the boat.

Can anyone please advise on how to connect this to the outboard?

Any help would be appreciated

I’m very new to this so expect some more posts to follow lol

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[dellquay13]

The tiller throttle is based on the twist grip tensioning a cable pulling on a lever on the carb i guess? I imagine that the remote kit replaces all of the cable from the tiller, and has a clamp to anchor the remote cable sheathing which bolts on, and a rubber clam gland for the cable entry.
There will be a Seloc workshop manual for the motor, the marine version of a Haynes manual, and it will be worth it's weight in gold.
Most older Mariner outboards are based on Yamaha models unlike later Mariner which are Mercury made, so you may need need a Yam manual rather than a Mariner one, but googling the model number may help advise you.

[DACS]

Remote control kits are available for outboards. They include a bracket to attach the steering link and support the outer sheath of the gear cable. The tiller is normally removed and a replacement cable control fitted.

A quick search found a ]kit for a Mercury/Mariner 5 hp here - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272970395205 ... CQQAvD_BwE but the price is £575!

[DaveClark]

Thanks to both of you for the advice
I have the original outboard manual so that’s handy for reference and under the tiller you can see the cable so I was hoping that it would be quite straightforward and not that expensive.

I also need to buy the throttle control kit if anyone knows of a decent reasonably price one they could suggest, I’ve looked on eBay and haven’t found many suitable, one was from Czech Republic that looked ok.
If anyone could even suggest a marine shop for this or a link to the kit that would be great.

Thanks again

[dellquay13]

To be frank, If I had a tiller outboard, but no throttle shift control box, cables or motor tiller conversion kit, I would sell the outboard and buy one built as a remote outboard with all the bits included, for roughly the same price as i sold the tiller one, and far far cheaper than converting it.
You would most likely need new control cables at the right length for your boat, but it would still be the cheapest and easiest way.
Tiller 5hp outboards are popular for tenders and auxiliary motors so it would be easy to sell at this time of year, and I would look for a 8-10hp four stroke on remotes, maybe even electric start. There is much less competition from other buyers for small sized remote motors so it is as near a buyers market as boats get.

[dellquay13]

Or buy a spares or repair mariner motor and strip it for the controls, use the carcass as a mud anchor...

[Clive]

I was thinking the same - having looked at parts recently and seen the price of remote controls!

[Clive]

Also when I replaced the engine on my previous 16 foot Maryland I was advised 15hp rather than 10 with the advice when the river (Thames) is in strong flow you don’t want to find yourself getting pulled towards a wier. I would want more than 5hp on any river.

[DaveClark]

Thanks again for the advice

I would only be looking at going on the Thames non-tidal
But yes I will be looking later on possibly a 20 HP outboard

I may just look at the option of selling the outboard and replacing as soon as possible

[Clive]

I don’t think you’d regret it and you’ll be trouble free. My Tohatsu 15 used about a litre an hour it was so economical. We went on the tidal part once. If you get the timings right it’s easy, get thru Teddington lock as the tide is going out and come back when it’s coming in so you’re not pushing against the tide. Richmond lock at lowest tide has about 18” of water so bear it in mind!